Less than 10km from town, this area makes for a great little trip to explore either in the freshness of the morning or to experience the expansive crimson sunsets in the early evening. Khao Chang Hai cave was the original attraction of the area but there are a few other spots to explore and enjoy. Of course, being Trang, a choice of snacks or something heartier is always to hand!
The Way of Life for Na Muen Sri People
As the topography in Tambon Na Muen Sri, Amphoe Na Yong, Trang is tilted plains and high mountains with abundant natural water resources, the people here are engaged in agricultural occupations such as rice farming, rubber plantations, and planting cotton to be woven into the famed local cloth.
The farming villagers have invented wind mills to panic birds or crows trying to eat the ripe and ready to harvest rice. Later, this kind of wind mill has been preserved and set up as an annual local festival. This is held in early March after the final rice harvest when the paddies are fallow through the hottest months of the year.
Na Muen Sri Wind Wheels
The legend had it that Pra Pai (or the Wind God), a father of a family in Heaven, had a problem with crows and birds coming and eating his ripened rice before it could be harvested. But he could not solve the problem as he had a duty to fan the cooling breeze for the angels in Heaven. So, he assigned this mission to his son, Look Lom (or Wind Wheel). Look Lom was lazy but clever. In order to chase the birds without having to shout with his own voice, he invented the wind wheels using different pieces of flat bamboo that were blown against the wind in the opposite rotations. The noise would then frighten the birds out of the rice fields.
When Pra Pai saw this invention, he was so proud of his son that he told the angels. They saw that this should be shared with the human beings to help them with their crop cultivation and increase their harvest too. Wes Nu, the chief soldier, was the messenger to pass down this innovation.
The Na Muen Sri farmers inherited the wind wheels and build them the same way to this day.
Some local people raise cattle to compete in the bullfighting arenas. There are 27 arenas in the southern provinces and at least 32 training grounds. It is estimated that the amount involved in betting on the sport is nearly 50 billion Baht. As a result of raising bulls for fighting, some farmers have been planting grass on parts of their land for the cattle and for sale. The crop can bring a price of 20,000 baht per Rai, 200 baht per big basket or 100 baht per sack.
Unlike the Spanish version, Thai bull fighting pits two beasts in a pushing match of strength to determine the stronger. The animals rarely experience any serious harm in the bouts and they are well cared for outside of the arena – something that you might see for yourself as you explore the areas off the main roads. Trang’s bull fighting stadium used to be located on the Phattalung Road, not far from Robinson’s. It can now be found in the Ban Khuan area on the south east edge of town.
In spare time away from farming, women often sit and weaving, while men do thread spinning and fabric dyeing. Cloth is woven for household use, religious ceremonies or cloth exchange with neighbors. The rest is to be sold in the local or national market. Many of the houses nearer Na Muen Sri village have looms set up outside where you can see the cloth being manufactured. A visit to the Na Muen Sri Weaving Group shop in the village can also provide an opportunity to see cloth in the making as well as some unique souvenirs!
Before the surrounding area was recognized for its natural scenery, the cave was the main draw to the area. A large playful monument marks the turn off to the cave as you come along the road and turn into the rice paddy trail area. Signage within the monument tell of the history of the area. The roads lining the canal between this and the cave itself have various statuary depicting aspects of traditional rural life in the area.
The Legend of “Khao Chang Hai” Cave
Sri Lankan culture influenced the worship of Buddhism in Siam and during this period Nakhorn Sri Thammarat was the centre of Buddhism in the southern region. The governor of Nakhorn Sri Thammarat had an idea to build a stupa (Pra Borommathat Chedi or called “Pra That”) in order to store a relic of the Buddha. The then governor announced this to the other nearby cities to encourage Buddhists to donate their gold to raising the Pra That monument.
After the announcement was spread to other cities, there were some Buddhists who were interested in donating and so traveled to Nakhorn Sri Thammarat. There was one elephant procession of pilgrims that stopped to rest near a dam during traveling. Suddenly, a pregnant elephant gave birth to a baby calf near the dam. Therefore, that dam has been called “Nong Chang Tok” since then. Once the calf was strong enough, the procession started moving again and arrived at another dam which was not too far from the first. The calf and its mother rushed into the dam, and the calf squirted water on its mother. This dam has been named “Nong Ta Wai Nam” or “Nong Wai Nam” after that.
When the procession arrived the foot of the hill, they again rested. However, the calf got separated from its mother and wandered into the cave, getting lost. When a mahout discovered this, he and a group of people followed the calf into the cave and the calf was found. Then, the mahout used only three red and white strings with an incantation to catch the calf easily.
While the mahout was bringing the calf out of the cave and walking through the rice paddies, farmers yelled many times to warn him that the strings fastened to the calf’s legs were going to be torn. As a result, the power of the magical incantation was weakened and the strings were torn, giving the calf a second chance to escape.
As the calf was running away, the mahout was just able to catch its tail. However, the calf was able to escape and ran back into the cave, never to be seen again. The cave has been named “Tham Khao Chang Hai” (Lost Elephant Cave) by villagers since then.
The cave is open daily, according to the below schedule, and there is an entrance fee of 200 baht for tourists + 20B car parking. Attendants around the blue roofed building will collect fees and register your details. Staff now provide guide service even though the cave is relatively well lit and although there are a couple of paths it’s not so expansive as to pose any risk of getting lost.
Do note that entry is restricted to the scheduled tour times:
| Monday – Friday | Weekend / Public Holiday |
| 9:00 am 11:00 am | 9:30 am 10:30 am 11:30 am |
| 1:30 pm 3:00 pm | 1:30 pm 2:30 pm 3:30 pm |
If you do make it down to the deepest level, remember to look back up at the previous level to try to spot the stalactite resembling the lost elephant. We found it easier to spot from down below, looking back up, but it is possible to make it out from the same level if the stairs down to the very bottom are not for you.
Surrounding Attractions
The banks of the canal in front of the cave and along the edge of the rice paddies host the local fairs and festivals. However, even if there are no festivities, there are still interesting corners to poke around and pique your interest.
From around June through to February, the area is actively used in rice cultivation. The water-filled paddies and lush greenery harking back to a pastoral past that has slowly eroded as the city itself continues to develop. This led to the establishment of a few enterprising breakfast spots, specializing in rice porridge (Khao Tom / Jok),sweet tea, and patongo (Chinese donuts), with boardwalks and photo spots over the rice fields.
Soon, simple shaded breakfast benches had become balconied restaurants serving up boats of noodles and Isaan classics to coaches of visitors on whirlwind photo stops.
Today, the added carriageway to alleviate congestion has returned things to that earlier simplicity of nature and the fields. There are still a few restaurants to choose from but many spots are now rocking a simpler campsite / cafe vibe and a more laid back experience.
As you continue around the fields, heading towards Na Muen Sri village, you will find Lung Veat Garden (Facebook / Google). This landscaped garden opens with sunrise and has a small coffee shop onsite. Entrance fee is 50B and there is ample off street parking. The flowers on display are rotated throughout the year and there is also a small man-made cascade with stepping stones, wooden bridge, and dry ice smoke that add further photo opportunities.
Continue to the end of the road and turn left into the village itself. Na Muen Sri Weaving Group is about 300m ahead on the left, just before the junction splits the road. It has live demonstrations of the looms at work and a museum dedicated to the history of the cloth that stretches back centuries.
As laid out in the royal archives of 1915, King Rama VI visited Trang province and granted all kinds of local fabrics to government officials by royal decree. In 1975, an invitation by the late Princess Vibhavadi Rangsit to promote the product in Witthayu Palace, Bangkok led to its current recognized status.
Even before these royal acknowledgements, Na Muen Sri fabric figured highly in the lives of the local population.
“It is our tradition that we must weave three types of clothes to use during three important ceremonies in our lives. First is pha tang, which is used by a groom for his wedding ceremony. Next is pha phad, which is used for man in his monkhood ceremony. The last one is pha phan chang, which is used for our husbands’ funeral.”
Bangkok Post – Woven in Time
Na Muen Sri Woman Weaving Center was established in order to save the art of local weaving from extinction. As recently as the turn of this century, research funding was acquired that allowed investigation to take place in the universities of Songkhla and Hat Yai as well as the office of National Archives. Visits were paid to the elderly residents of the area that turned up a treasure trove of lost patterns, the cherished belongings of a time past.
The woven cloth can be categorized by its structure into 3 types: plain, checked, and with raised motifs. The unique patterns of the Na Muen Sri woven fabric include Lai Luk Kaeo, Lai Luk Kaeo Ching Duang, Lai Ratchawat, Lai Dok Chan, and Lai Dok Phikun. Currently, more than 30 popular patterns are available. The fabric is used in the production of souvenir and fashion products.
Souvenir shopping expedition completed, take the left fork of the junction to complete the circuit of the rice paddy area and return to Khao Chang Hai cave.
Getting There
The area and layout of the attractions lends itself to a simple circuit making this an ideal opportunity to explore privately with rented transport. Head east out of town, past Robinson’s, on the main road to Phattalung. At the main crossroad junction (Thapab), turn left onto the bypass ring road. At the next crossroad, about 1km along, turn right. It’s that easy!
Insider guide: As you head towards the main crossroad you’ll have a couple of choices:
- As the main road bends slightly to the right, the pavement is lined with Muu Yang (Roast Pork) and Trang Cake shops. Tha Pap bakery is considered one of the best bakeries in Trang and if the oft triple parked vehicles don’t give away the shop location, look out for the miniature Trang clock tower and tuk-tuk parked outside.
- Alternatively, earlier on your route as you leave town you will pass under a footbridge, this is followed by a large hardware store, Thai Watsadu, on the left. Immediately after the store exit, turn left into the small rural lane. This tree-lined avenue provides an early opportunity to experience the views over rice fields and to the peaks of the Banthat range beyond. This road ends at the crossroad entrance to the rice paddy trail, simply cross straight over the bypass road when traffic is clear.
Both banks of the canal through the area now have paved roads. However, the ‘left lane only’ policy is only really enforced during the fairs and festivals when the volume of traffic significantly increases. Otherwise, there is no one-way policy. For the sake of safety and simplicity, it makes life easier to just pretend that there is – use the left-bank carriageway and leave the right-bank to oncoming traffic.
As described above, a simple circuit of the area by local roads will let you visit everything but we can make a couple of suggestions depending on if the visit coincides with early morning or the afternoon. As an added bonus, we’ll include some breakfast, lunch, and dinner options. Hey, it’s still Trang!
Morning
Why not start with breakfast? That is after all one of the area’s attractions.
Once you reach the turn off to the cave, the first restaurant on the right (ร้านกาแฟ ชุมทาน ริมทุ่ง นาหมื่นศรี) is a great place to enjoy a traditional Trang dim sum breakfast. It is open from 06:30 am but is closed early in the week. Built on stilts over rice and lotus flowers, push though to the seating along ‘the walls’ towards the rear rather than the tables for the full experience.
If you can get all the way to the back, you’ll have views across to the reclining Buddha at the base of the cliff opposite. Of course, you could always just walk over there after breakfast!
Insider guide: There will be no shortage of alternative suggestions should you need one but here’s a personal one from us – 33:11 Cafe offers its own quirky ambiance. Find an empty table either in the teak front of house or through in the garden behind. Order your tea or coffee and then make your way to the counter at the front to select your dim sum dishes that will be brought to your table when ready. A small stand out front does Khao Tom and there are also a couple of rice dishes and Kai Gata available in-house.
To get back on track, you can head past Kapang Surin Park by turning right at the next set of traffic lights. This will bring you back to Robinson’s and from there follow the earlier directions. Alternatively, head straight on through the lights, along Ban Po Road, to connect with the ring road bypass. Simply turn right and make your way around the bend, then left into the rice field area.
Now is the time to get some Instagram snaps before the sun gets too hot. Boardwalks and parking for the camping cafes are back over the other side of the canal and will get you down to field level, or just above it. Bridges scattered along the length of the canal provide plenty of u-turn spots should you spot a missed photo opp.
The end of the ‘left bank’ road brings you out almost directly at Lung Veat Garden. The mornings tend to be quieter than the afternoon golden hour and there shouldn’t be any wilting of the blooms at this time.
On this stretch of road, if you head back the way you came, is Cher Na Cafe. Lots of smoked glass and alfresco seating means you can still enjoy the view. Always popular, it can be a little slow when it comes to food if it gets busy.
As it is likely warming up by now, you choose your escape either into the village and Na Muen Sri Weaving Group or into the depths of Khao Chang Hai cave. Both provide respite from the rising temperature.
Emerging back into the sunlight, sightseeing done, you can pick one of the local spots for a bite to eat or head back into town to avoid the afternoon heat.
Insider Guide: Sit-Dee Cafe & Restaurant offers a range of western staples but is also one of only two places in Trang that have Mexican fare on the menu! We especially enjoy the fluatas and an iced fruit shake for brunch. Plenty of seating on the raised deck takes advantage of any breeze.
Located almost directly behind the cave, take the small concrete paved lane to the right of the cave entrance. Take the first right, then simply follow the road, keeping right after passing the turn off to the small resort.
Afternoon
Last entry to the cave is around 3pm so that should be the starting point if it is on the list to visit.
To avoid back and forth, simply continue on the same road that leads to the cave to perform a clockwise circuit round to the village. On the way, you’ll pass ไร่มีตาลตะวัน restaurant. Tables are on platforms built over a fish-filled lake of turquoise water. Feel free to drop a little rice for the fish to nibble but look out for other patrons kayaking around the lake! Lots of seating and lots of staff ensure prompt service even on deservedly busy days.
Although lots of regulations surround the use & welfare of working elephants, they are still one of the few options capable of working in rugged rubber and teak plantations when the trees are being felled. The area opposite the car park here is sometimes home to working elephants. Stop by to purchase some sugarcane or other treats to feed them – long gone are the days of encountering an elephant with a literal tail-light walking through town.
As you continue on the road, there is only one junction to be wary of as you make your way to Na Muen Sri Weaving Group. The road appears to continue straight but you will need to go right here to get into the village. The weaving group shop is just to the right when you reach the junction with the main road.
You should have time for a quick browse through the shop before you head on into the rice paddy area. As before, about 300m along the road from the shop is the turn in on the right. You don’t have to go far to reach the entrance to Lung Veat Garden to enjoy the blooms in the evening light before the 6:30pm closing.
As you head around the fields towards the cave turn off once more, you have a few choices as the sun sets. The camping cafes will now be open if you’re looking for something simple and light to enjoy outdoors. The restaurants along the road will also be available for something more substantial.
Insider guide: Khiaw Chang Restaurant Sunset Bar. This place is almost directly opposite Lung Veat Garden on our ‘clockface’ of the area, about mid-way between Khao Chang Hai cave and ไร่มีตาลตะวัน restaurant on the lake.
Run by a Thai-German couple, the pizza here is made the Neapolitan way as taught by the previous owners of the Kalume resort on Koh Kradan. With the sun often setting behind the karst of the cave from here, enjoy the last crimson rays with a cold drink in the garden as you wait for dinner.
Will you choose a morning or an afternoon visit?
For transport or to arrange motorcycle rental for the day, we can recommend Trang Happy Trip & Tour by the train station.
The route to and around the area is easily navigable and presents no hazards when simple road safety rules are followed. However, accidents do happen and even low speed falls resulting in minor bumps and scrapes should be properly cleaned and dressed to combat infections that can quickly take hold in tropical climates. Relax and enjoy your travels with the security of knowing that your personal medical expenses for any such accidents are covered by Nomad Insurance policies.
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